Throttle cable slack adjustment

[rndthought]

Steve, please, look into this - it is really starting to annoy me. :rant Looked for some nuts but couldn’t find any. (don’t you dare go there) Plus, should I be lubricating something in the twisty grip thingy? (again, don’t you dare go there) Just doesn’t seem all that smooth compared to some other bikes I’ve molested at the local Hooters Bike Night (don't understand why people go there, the wings suck and the beer is warm)
Need one of your patented POV “How To” WIKI Vids. :bow

[damnage]

You just want to adjust the freeplay? Easy enough.

Notice that you have two throttle cables. One governs the actual acceleration, or, is the actual throttle cable. The second one is your throttle return. Pretty common setup on bikes.

If you just want to adjust the throttle free play, look at the top throttle cable and then follow it down about 6". You'll notice a rubber boot, or maybe not. If the boot is there, slide it up or down to expose the adjusting nuts. You'll need two wrenches to do this job. I forget what size, probably a 10mm and a 12mm or 13mm. Loosen the nut closest to the grip, this is the lock nut. Now turn the bottom nut (it's probabaly about 2" long) until you get the desired free play. Hold the bottom adjusting nut in place with one wrench while tightening the top lock nut. Voila, done.

If you're trying to lube these cables, I think you're going to have to come at from the engine side, though I might be wrong here. Someone else might actually know on this.

edit to add: IIRC, the manual calls for 2mm-3mm free play in the throttle. Trust me, you WANT that! Overtighten it and it can play havoc with the throttle and your idle. NOT good! Just google "printable ruler" and print out a paper ruler. You can lay it along the throttle grip to get your measurements.

[Super Sneaky Steve]

Damnage said it pretty darn good. Here's a diagram of the cables. (http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/oem_schematic_view~schem_dept_id~1135073~section_d ept_id~~section_dept_name~~dept_type_id~2~model_de pt_year~2004~model_dept_mfr~Honda~model_dept_id~11 32616~model_dept_name~CB600F.asp) #1 and #2 are what he's talking about.

The whole cable is only $11. If it's still sticky you may want to replace it. Just be sure it's your cable that is the problem.

If you need more info or another one of my lame videos :wink: I'll make one just for you. But, you'll have to find my two nuts first :lol: It's under the rubber thing :lol:

[Super Sneaky Steve]

Hey, before you go digging into your bike make sure the right grip isn't rubbing on the base of the bar or the bar end.

This may make your throttle feel less smooth. Another factor that may make your throttle feel different is that the return spring may be slightly different than other bikes(not a bad thing).

So, if your grip isn't rubbing, your cable and spring are good, your bike should feel as good as any other carburated bike.

[rndthought]

See, 2-3mm sounds good - what I'm dealing with is more like 12mm!! Half inch yo! So for sure I need to find some nuts. :D

Don't think it's the cables dragging anywhere. Don't know how to explain how I feel it but it just seems like the interface of the grip and the surface it is rotating around is ruff... will check to see if it is rubbing against any part of the bar.

Thanks for the tips boys and will be purchasing a wrench set tomorrow... K-Mart is good for tools no?

And Steve, I'm telling you - them vids aren’t lame they are great. Full of info and humor. Just a bit more production value and you could sell 'em for cash. Could end up like that Tie guy on Extreme Home Makeover if you are not careful. Mobbed by women every where he goes... hell, you may single handedly grow the female biker market.

[damnage]

See, 2-3mm sounds good - what I'm dealing with is more like 12mm!! Half inch yo! So for sure I need to find some nuts. :D

Don't think it's the cables dragging anywhere. Don't know how to explain how I feel it but it just seems like the interface of the grip and the surface it is rotating around is ruff... will check to see if it is rubbing against any part of the bar.

Thanks for the tips boys and will be purchasing a wrench set tomorrow... K-Mart is good for tools no?

And Steve, I'm telling you - them vids aren’t lame they are great. Full of info and humor. Just a bit more production value and you could sell 'em for cash. Could end up like that Tie guy on Extreme Home Makeover if you are not careful. Mobbed by women every where he goes... hell, you may single handedly grow the female biker market.

12mm of play! Holy crap, rndthought! That would drive me insane. Mine had about 5mm of play and it drove me nuts. If it's really that much free play you might have to take up some slack at the engine to get it back into spec.

Any cheapo tools are fine for this job. Not a lot of torque involved on this adjustment. You don't have the toolkit for the bike? If you do everything you need is in there.

[rndthought]

12mm of play! Holy crap, rndthought! That would drive me insane.
Well, I'm a bit short of insane but it is very annoying especially in/out of aggressive corners...
You don't have the toolkit for the bike? If you do everything you need is in there.
I didn't know where the air filter was... (Steve, STFU :wink: ) Ok, stupid question 2:
Where the F do they store tools on this thing? Does it have a jack too? :lol:

I'm still picking up one of those cool plastic kits that have everything you need in it, tape measure, hammer, screw drivers, wrenches, sockets...you never know when you'll need that stuff.

[damnage]

I didn't know where the air filter was... (Steve, STFU :wink: ) Ok, stupid question 2:
Where the F do they store tools on this thing? Does it have a jack too? :lol:

I'm still picking up one of those cool plastic kits that have everything you need in it, tape measure, hammer, screw drivers, wrenches, sockets...you never know when you'll need that stuff.

The factory toolkit should be located under the seat on the left side. Black plastic bag. If you purchased the bike used it may not be there anymore. If it isn't I suggest you put your own kit together and keep it in the bike. Never know when you might need it!

[rndthought]

...should be located under the seat...
That Bastard! Guess I'll need to get some loose tools too :(

[Super Sneaky Steve]

On my 9er the nuts are near the top of the cable. All you need is a set of open ended wrenches.

You'll see a lock nut then the longer adjusting nut. Start twising stuff. If something bad happens, go the other way :D

[Super Sneaky Steve]

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y123/ex500/SSS/throttlenut.jpg

There, you can see in the red circle where the lock nut is. Loosen it then hit the longer one.

Easy as pie.

[jmd]

I think i'll leave my nuts alone, thankyouverymuch.

Mmm...pie. :twisted:

[mechanic77]

tool kit under the seat in a black bag on the RIGHT side :D

[rndthought]

tool kit under the seat in a black bag on the RIGHT side :D
Evidently mine has gone missing...
Steve, took a quick look at it today and didn't really see what to do. Will ask a buddy tomorrow. Thanks for the help though...

[rndthought]

Ok, here is the update, it's all like Damnage and Steve said. Easy as pie. Piece of cake. So now ALL DONE. Had to go back to the store and get METRIC wrenches DHOOO! But now' I'm set. Throttle feels much better. Will see about lubing the twisty grip part this weekend.

Thanks boys! :thumbsup

[MotoGPFan26]

I'm glad you guys put this thread up. I bought some Progrips #700 SCS (Speed Control System). I'm planning on putting them on when my suburban machinery bar gets here. This thread will help me I think.

Sure hope it's easy changing grips...

[Super Sneaky Steve]

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/6140/bar1bq1.th.jpg (http://img69.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bar1bq1.jpg)

To get the grip off first you need to get the bar end off. That means you need to take off the clip. If you can't find it let me know.

Afterwards you'll need to jam a screw driver under the old grip. Then take some WD-40 or any spray can lube and squirt it in there. The grip will come off easy.

If you want to reuse the old grips hit them with lots of Simple Green and let them soak in soapy water. It's very important that you get all the oil off.

Then you need to prep the bar. In your case you don't because you have a new bar. Otherwise you need to clean it really really good. That means Simple Green on the bar, then some Windex untill it's squeeky clean.

To put on the new grip, dunk it in a bucket of soapy water. It will slide right on. Let it sit for a day so that the water dries. Afterward it will stick very well. Be careful not to use too much soap. Just a little bit will do.

[mechanic77]

you can take the bar ends off with a philips screw driver and may want to use grip glue we had to use it on our dirt bikes ... during inspection at a race they would grab a grip and if it didnt have glue you can pretty much always get one to move and then we couldnt race :( :( so been using it ever since

[MotoGPFan26]

Sneaky Steve and Mechanic....I didn't ask for all the info on changing grips...but you guys explained it to me anyway...I VERY MUCH APPRECIATE you two explaining it to me.

I didn't really know how. I figured I'd just wing it and learn as I went. You two just made my job a WHOLE LOT EASIER!

Thanks again to the both of you! :thumbsup :thumbsup

[MotoGPFan26]

Just adjusted my throttle slack. I had developed a total of about 10mm worth of slack over the past three weeks since I've had my bike.

Anyway...adjusted it down to about 3mm...was a piece of cake and the throttle feels soooooooooooooooo much better.

[thejoe138]

hair spray works VARY well for putting the grips on. works as a lubricant to get them on easy, and when dry works as a glue without any mess left on the bars at the next grip change like grip glue does.

[MotoGPFan26]

hair spray works VARY well for putting the grips on. works as a lubricant to get them on easy, and when dry works as a glue without any mess left on the bars at the next grip change like grip glue does.

I had considered using hairspray...that's what I've always used on my mountain bikes. Didn't know if the same principle would apply here...

The grips I picked up say "No need for safety wire or Grip Glue with Python Gripping System with Steel Lock-tight band Built in Steel "Safety Band" Lock System = 100% No-Slip Grip"

Maybe I don't have to use anything??